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Camera or flasher - - - 2 messages. Showing 1 through 2.
nofishfisherman
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Joined 06/30/2005
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Daily Subscription Msg 1 Posted: 08:32 AM 12/29/05 (CST)
Hey Guys
I posted a similar question on "the other site" and am waiting for it to get deleted. But I think I am safe here.

I want either an underwater camera or a flasher unit for a trip to Mille Lacs I am trying to plan.

I can't afford to get a flasher new and used ones are still pretty expensive. A camera is better price but seems like everyone seems to say they are more a toy not a tool. But I am thinking if a camera is all I have I might be able to make it work for me and at least I know if I am fishing where fish are.

What are your thoughs, what would be better to get?
And does anyone have a used camera or flasher they can part with?

Sounds like alot of guys have cameras but don't use them much for the right price i could put one to use.

Feel free to email me if you have one. anopp@stthomas.edu


Scrunch
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Joined 07/19/2004
Posts:546

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Daily Subscription Msg 2 Posted: 09:15 AM 12/29/05 (CST)
Vexilar is the way to go when icefishing. I use it extensively.

Here I clipped a good post I found...

"There are definitely two ways to go here. Aqua-View has CRT (different models) monitors, which ARE NOT daylight viewable without a shade. They also have 'DAYLIGHT VIEWABLE' units(S and SC models). Both can be had with 'temp at depth'. Some have temp. AND depth, on screen. I have both.

Before I bought my first one, a ZT 100,...I think, I called AquView and talked to an engineer. I was under the assumption that I wanted their top-of-the-line camera. The engineer asked me, specifically, what my...general water conditions were. I told him; 'I fish in the daylight, dusk to dark in green stained, sometimes cloudy water with lots of particulates'. I also talked about sometimes going to the coast and fishing the clearer, natural lakes(still with particulates). The man promised that their, low dollar, ZT unit would be the best, all-around camera for me(saved over $100). I found this to be true. Even in early morning and almost dark, I never used the, auxillary, IR switch. The only problem was, unless it was super-cloudy or low light times, I couldn't see the screen without their 'sunshade'. It is a pain in the butt. I get sea-sick peering into it.

I ended up buying a nine inch, B&W, twelve volt television with a VCR in the bottom. The thing plugs right into the camera screen. I mounted it on a seat pedestal where it is visible all over the boat if spun around. I taped a flat piece of dark plastic film overhanging on top to cut any glare. It works great.

My other camera is an S100. I wish I'd bought it first(wasn't invented yet) and I wish they had made it with a larger screen. There's no problem with sun-glare with this one.

Using the camera; Be aware, if you are moving the boat under power (electric motor), the faster you go the more down-angle you put on the camera. It'll swing backwards with the pressure of the water. This is not a bad thing. The more it swings back, the more it points down and the higher you can have it off the bottom(see farther with about a 45 deg. angle. This wil help keep the camera farther from obstructions(structure/cover) and hang-ups. You just need to realize the drift-relationship of the camera to the boat so you can drop a marker in the correct place. I have NEVER had a problem with not being able to see through dark and cloudy water!!! If it's 'chocolate milk' I don't want to fish anyway.

Spooking fish; I have moved along, with the trolling motor at slow speed, in fifteen feet of water and had Bass, Trout and Crappie come up and nose the camera. When wind-drifting (camera straight down) I have dropped the camera down into schools of fish and forage without spooking them. This, at under ten feet deep. Sometimes the bait-fish will act as if they are hanging under the hull for protection. You have to be quiet and drift like a log but it's a kick. Year before last my grandson did a science project for school(fourth grade) with a video we taped. He called it 'Bass at Ten-Mile'. What a kick for kids.

Fishing with camera; KS Basser is right on the money. When you see structure/cover and Bass, you drop a marker buoy and come back later. The first thing I do is figure what depth the fish are using(with the camera)and what type of cover, drop a marker and look for other fish at that depth. After I have a half dozen markers out, I come back and do a 'milk run' on the markers(stay back and cast to them).

Some of the most fun you'll ever have is fishing boat docks and piers. Order, from Aqua-View, the telescoping pole for the camera. Ease down the bank and slowly and quietly poke the camera under floats and through dock piles, looking for bass. When you see Bass, tie a piece of 'surveyers tape' on a bush near the dock(to remember which one it is) and go on to the next one. No one else will notice those tiny pieces of ribbon. And... the last dock, in a line of them, will...always(neck waaaay out)...hold Bass. (read, 'most always')

All docks and piers do not hold Bass(please tell me why). Keep going down the line of docks until you get a few productive ones marked and come back and do another 'milk-run'. Keep running a circuit until they 'turn on'. You KNOW they are there.

You WILL, at first, watch the screen more than you cast lures....Hey...It's fun. Then, when you conclude that your catch rate is in the toilet, you will start dropping marker buoys and moving on. You'll realize when it is time to pull up the camera and start fishing your markers.

Also...you WILL, after you get used to your new toy, realize 'There aint no such thing as ONE BASS'! There are Bass, in a group, that are active while most, in that same group, are inactive. Keep making that 'milk run'. They WILL turn on....and you know they are there."
Camera or flasher - - - 2 messages. Showing 1 through 2.
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